The first thing about Cologne - how do the Germans make it so damn easy to get around? Thank you, Germany, for your impeccably timed and reliable public transportation. I seem to appreciate this more and more every time I leave Italy. Upon waking up in Cologne the next day, I set out to do what seems to be the one skill I am really cultivating this year (besides learning to control my blood pressure while trying to purchase fish in Italy): really seeing a place in a very limited amount of time. So, even though I knew I was going to freeze, I set off for downtown Cologne, determined to take it by storm. And I have to say I am pretty proud of myself, because I checked a lot of cool stuff off my list (which again is just easier to list, for brevity's sake):
-Cologne Dom (Cathedral): This is literally the first thing you see when you leave the train station. And it definitely hits my list of top European churches. It's the most perfect gothic cathedral, and what's more, is gorgeous inside too (those arched groin vaults...thank you art history for making me appreciate them so much). Then, since I had the time, I decided to climb up the south tower of the cathedral. But oh yeah, it was 509 steps (and I mean real steps, not wimpy ones) - and it was so worth it for the view at the top. Plus I then got to see "Fat Peter" - the biggest free-swinging bell in the world!
-EL-DE Haus: so slightly more sobering, but very cool nonetheless - EL-DE Haus was a gestapo prison during WWII, which today has been preserved and also has a memorial/museum on the upper two floors. To be honest, I didn't last very long - not exactly the happiest of places - but the best part was the jolly old beret-wearing German guy at the front desk who talked with me for a solid 20 minutes. I swear, this guy was so excited that I was just an American with German roots, and he was even more excited to tell me about the incredible history of Cologne (which was a capital of the Roman empire at one point, did you know? In fact, they just have Roman and medieval walls kind of lying around in the middle of the city).
-Schokolad Museum: Ok, obviously I needed a pick-me-up. So I walked along the Rhine down to the Chocolate Museum, which I think is owned by Lindt, because not only do they have three floors of exhibitions to bring you through the history of chocolate and how it is made, but they have a legitimate factory in there where you can watch women in white lab coats (sadly, not oompa loompas) bag little milk chocolates that start as mush at one end and somehow end up in little gold wrappers in about 30 seconds. And yes, there were samples. Duh.
So I was pretty content with my sightseeing and felt that the next best thing to do, after a quick coffee warm-up, was to grab a pretzel (I mean, I was in Germany after all) and walk around some of the roman ruins. Since it was cold and dark at that point, I made it back to my hostel - and here is the beautiful thing about solo travel AND hostels - where I ran into Liam. Liam, an Australian guy about my age, strikes up a conversation and before I know it we are making dinner at the hostel and enjoying multiple liters of koelsch (THE beer of Cologne, which is absolutely delicious). So I made a fast friend, and now I have someone to visit in Sydney if the moment arises!
The next day I caught the train to Brussels, which turned out to be a blast (as only high speed trains through the Belgian countryside can be), and I arrived there midday. I was so determined to hit the Beaux-Artes museum (it was a Sunday, and since all museums close on Mondays, it was my only shot!). Well, I have to say, Brussels turned out to be a bit trickier to maneuver than expected. So I trekked all over searching for this place for a couple of hours, and when I still hadn't found it, I decided it was time to throw in the towel. Which is when I had the most heavenly experience of my weekend - for, there in front of me, in this huge plaza overlooking the city, I saw my very first waffle truck.
Now, it is important to note that there are actually two types of waffles in Brussels. And I am wholly unconcerned with the inferior, but more famous Belgian waffle (the rectangular, deep dish type that is way too crispy for its own good). No no no - there is another type of waffle in Belgium called the Liege waffle, and this one is what you get when you go to the waffle vans. So, frustrated with my futile museum search, I go up to the truck and ask for a waffle, completely unaware of how amazing this is about to be as I hand over my 1.50 euro. Seriously, I have never had such an awesome waffle - they warm it up, so the edges are a little bit sticky and crispy, but the waffle itself is really dense and - get this - has sugar crystals inside it. I ate 4 in two days. Though I feel totally justified because I won't get to eat waffles for another 6 months. I should have just bought myself a waffle truck and stayed. But seriously, the most amazing thing about these trucks - and really all of Brussels - is that, I kid you not, it smelled like freshly made waffles at all hours of the day. Who wouldn't want to live in such a place?
I did some good sight-seeing in Brussels too, though it is definitely a bigger city so it was harder to figure out in the limited time I had. But I went to the Museum of Musical Instruments (mostly because it was in this incredible art nouveau building), saw some Tin Tin comics, saw Mannekin Pis (the peeing boy statue!), the Grand Place, ate some more waffles, and got my own personal tour of the European Parliament (life really is all about the people you know)...but I'll spare you the boring details (instead you got to read in too much detail all about waffles, hooray! Obviously I have my priorities straight). I'll post my pictures as soon as possible!
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